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HUGO CHAVEZ, VENEZUELA 
AND HOW THE MORE THINGS CHANGE THE MORE THEY REMAIN THE SAME

Peter H. Tveskov
January 17, 2006

 
You rarely see any mention of Venezuela in the Travel sections of the newspapers, but a few weeks ago there was an article about Caracas. They mentioned the hotel Tamanaco and the "Tarzilandia" restaurant - a churrasqueria - as places to stay and eat. I was surprised, as both places were prominent last time I visited Caracas forty years ago. I often stayed at the Tamanaco although I much preferred the Hotel Avila located on the opposite side of the valley, a classier and prettier location.
 
When I arrived in Venezuela from Denmark in 1948, it was necessary to use the Carretera Vieja -"the old highway" - between the Maiquetia airport in the port city of LaGuaira and Caracas. LaGuaira had been seriously damaged during the seasonal rains that year and I specifically remember the unique smell where the local cemetery had washed away. The Caracas-LaGuaira railroad had also washed out and one could see forlorn rolling stock along the way.
 
It was about a two hour trip up over the mountains and down into the high valley in which Caracas is located. During the eight year dictatorship of General Marcos Perez Jimenez in the fifties a new four lane super highway was built, known as the Autopista. It reduced the trip to less than half an hour. At the same time General Perez Jimenez - affectionately known by the expatriate Americans in Venezuela as "PJ" - also built the cylindrical high rise Hotel Humboldt on top of Mount Avila, the mountain range separating Caracas from the coast - connected to the city by a cable car. The hotel, which among other things had a skating rink, was never successful as the altitude and cold was uncomfortable to the guests.
 
The Venezuelan newspapers now report that due to lack of maintenance a viaduct on this highway has been damaged by the seasonal rains and the road has been shut down indefinitely making it necessary to use the Carreterar Vieja again. (The railroad was never rebuilt).
 
Flood damage to LaGuaira happens nearly every year during the rainy season and Coronel Chavez' first confrontation with the US as president occurred when the US offered unconditional aid and assistance during the floods during his first year in office. He ordered the US to cease and desist and for the US Navy ships to leave immediately - they did.
 
So how did Venezuela get from Simon Bolivar, El Libertador, to paratrooper Lieutenant Coronel Hugo Chavez Frias?
 
Venezuela became independent of Spain July 5, 1811 following the war of independence. For the next 150 years or so a series of civil wars and dictatorships of various durations and cruelty followed. The country was officially a federal republic and many of these wars were caused by warlords of the individual states, all of whom wanted to dominate the country at some point or another. This period pretty much ended with the nearly thirty year dictatorship of General Juan Vicente Gomez, who ruled as president or power behind the throne. During Gomez' rule oil was discovered and exploitation begun, creating great wealth for the country and its rulers. Gomez also created a national army led by a professional officer corps educated at the national military academy in Caracas and established a federal military police force known as the Guardia Nacional, patterned on the Spanish Guardia Civil and the Italian Carabinieri. Following the death of General Gomez the country was ruled by a series of criollo military figures mostly brought up in Gomez' army and mainly generals from the Andean western state of Tachira. Most of these presidents tended to be more progressive than had been the custom during the history of Venezuela and a  group of civilian politicians also appeared on the scene, the best known being Romulo Betancourt and Rafael Caldera, leaders of the Accion Democratica and Christian Democrat (COPEI) party respectively. Both eventually became elected presidents, but not until after a military coup in 1949 which brought then Coronel Marcos Perez Jimenez - also a "tachirense" - to power.
 
The country prospered during Perez Jimenez' regime, but it was also a true dictatorship, complete with a brutal secret police, political murders and repression of all political parties.
 
Perez Jimenez was overthrown in 1958 and was followed by a true democracy that lasted for about forty years until the advent of Coronel Chavez, who is not from Tachira but a mestizo from the plains state of Barinas. While suffering from serious official corruption, this period also saw the peaceful changes following free elections of governments between the two major parties, unheard of in Venezuela's history. A sitting president was even impeached and deposed during this period, all proofs that democracy was indeed on the way in Venezuela.

 

During the same period the oil industry and iron mining industry were peacefully nationalized and public corporations established to take the place of Mobil, Esso, Texaco, Shell, Gulf and US Steel Corporation. In general these nationalized corporations were well run and gained the respect of the international business community. Foreign companies continued to function in Venezuela as specialized sub-contractors for these national corporations. The Venezuelan national oil company, Petroleos de Venezuela, even decided to enter the down-stream market and purchased Cities Service (CITGO) in order to market their refined products in the United States.
 
What has changed though, is the population of Venezuela. In 1948 there were about 5,000,000 inhabitants; today there are over five times that many. The ruling class of the country had traditionally been the white "criollos", while the lower classes were composed mainly of mestizos and blacks, with some Indians in the southern parts of the country as well as on the border between Colombia and Venezuela. After the war thousands of European immigrants arrived in Venezuela, mainly from Spain, Portugal and Italy, and between these immigrants and the well paid workers of the large corporations - Venezuelan and foreign - a true middle class was developing. While the upper class criollos were usually educated in private colleges mainly run by Catholic orders or attended secondary schools in the United States and Europe, the middle and lower classes depended on a public school system, education, at least officially, being compulsory. I do not know the demographic statistics of the country, but would venture a guess that proportionally the lower classes have grown more than the upper classes.
 
Another positive result of the forty years of democracy has been the removal of the military as a significant factor in politics, a dramatic change for a country in which the military traditionally was the government!
 
Due to the solid basis of the Venezuelan economy, the currency, the Bolivar, used to be based on gold. Indeed the Bolivar, which originally was fixed at Bs 5 to the $, a Bs 5 silver coin being identical in size and silver content to a US silver dollar. By the time the national resources were nationalized the Bolivar was worth 3.35/US $, the US $ having dropped in value against the Bolivar.
 
Due to the chaotic international and internal political situations, corruption and the energy cost crises in the seventies, the Bolivar collapsed and now a dollar will buy over 2,000 Bs -, that is if the Venezuelans are allowed to purchase foreign currency, which since Mr. Chavez' takeover can only be done with official permission and a reason deemed legitimate to the authorities.
 
Many of the descendants of the immigrants have returned to their countries of origin and due to the explosive population growth there are no longer enough jobs in the private and productive government sectors, i.e. the oil industry, iron and steel industry, to accommodate the growing number of poor people. Coronel Chavez, not a criollo, promises a bright future to these long ignored dark skinned members of Venezuelan society. In many ways he is another Juan Peron catering to his "descamizados".
 
His red herring of course has to be the United States, not a convincing red herring, as Venezuela's major industries have long since been nationalized, but a traditional target for the very proudly nationalistic Venezuelans. Chavez has established a relationship with Fidel Castro's Cuba, bartering petroleum products for Cuban physicians, teachers and other professional advisors.
 
The criollo classes have attempted and continue to attempt to defeat Coronel Chavez. As another result of the new democratic tradition, these attempts so far have been done constitutionally. Enough political pressure was applied to Coronel Chavez early in the 2000s so that he officially and in writing resigned. However, the people who took over from him miscalculated badly by using extra-constitutional  steps and were soon defeated, Chavez returning in triumph. He immediately neutralized the armed forces by retiring the senior generals - a few of whom had been involved in the coup attempt - and by promoting his contemporaries in the officer corps, granting significant pay raises to both officers and men in  the process.
 
Chavez also tries to present himself as a new Simon Bolivar and liberator of the oppressed peoples of the entire South American continent. One of his first steps was to do away once and for all with the illusion of the federal Venezuelan republic, changing the name of the country to the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela. He is establishing what is euphemistically known as a military reserve, in fact a people's militia, and has purchased 100,000 AK47s from Russia to arm these "reservists". Time will tell how the Venezuelan professional armed forces will accept these "reservists" and also how many of the AK47s will appear in "armies of liberation" in other South American countries!
 
Is Chavez a threat to the US? Not unless either his or our government miscalculates disastrously. Oil being a fungible product, it would be difficult for Chavez to deny the US oil and if he does, his new found wealth would also shrink and he might have to replace his recently purchased Airbus presidential airplane with something a bit more modest, especially if he no longer would need it for state visits to other South American countries.
 
What is my interest in that beautiful and wealthy country?
 
I emigrated there with my mother at age 14 and finished my secondary education in the Colegio de San Jose de Merida - with the rich criollos - and at the Liceo Andres Bello in Caracas - with the children of the middle class and of the immigrants. I spoke no Spanish when I got to Merida, but had ninety days to take an equivalency exam in order to remain in the level where I had been placed. With the aid of one of the Jesuit priests I learned two years' worth of Spanish language and literature in ninety days and passed the exam. Three years later when the time came for me to go to the university, Perez Jimenez had closed the Venezuelan universities as the students were rioting against him. Instead I came to Yale, arriving late one night in New Haven from Idlewild Airport by Greyhound bus. I frankly did not even know exactly where New Haven was located, except that it was reasonably close to New York. All kidding aside, the reason I chose Yale was that an aunt who was a judge in Denmark had attended the Yale Law School after the war and recommended the university.
 
Later in my professional career my wife and two older children lived, toured and worked for a couple of years in Venezuela. Over the years I kept in touch with some of my classmates from Merida and Caracas, but unfortunately they are no longer with us.
 
 

    

 

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